Harvest, Part 1

This year may go down as the latest harvest in Oregon winemaking history. Strolling through the vineyards today, we discovered big, healthy clusters with little to no damage from birds, insects or botrytis. This is especially promising because conditions have been somewhat wet and unstable over the last couple of weeks. The fruit is showing pretty flavors, beautiful color and a nice acidic backbone. The sugar levels will continue to rise and by November 1st – yes, November – we will pick for the Vista label.

Down at Panther Creek, some fruit has already come in. We’ve processed about 25 tons of Pinot Noir and counting. It has been sorted, destemmed and tanked. Most of the juice has been inoculated and the building is smelling better by the day. The mornings are spent running the numbers (pH and Brix), while the afternoons have been reserved for readying equipment, fixing forklifts, and shooting hoops on the crush pad.

Conditions Friday were so good we couldn’t help but walk with a certain swagger. 

Sampling the berries in the vineyard, it doesn’t take long to realize that the fruit isn’t quite ready yet. There’s plenty of tartness and the cluster stems are still changing from green to brown. The pips (seeds) are definitely turning, becoming crisper and gaining color along the way. It’s amazing how much flavor difference there is over the course of just a few days in early autumn. This really is a pivotal stretch in the maturation of our fruit.

Constellation or young wine?  Young wine, it turns out.

Vintages Collide: 2011 juice mingles with barreled 2010 wine. 

Winemakers spend a lot of time shuffling through weather reports this time of year. Most are pleased, excited even. To call 2011 a delayed vintage is an understatement, but the best things are worth waiting for. Stay tuned for details on picking Vista Hills fruit, firing up the press, and a few words from the winemaker.

From Burgundy, With Love

You can’t walk through a Willamette Valley tasting room without someone bringing up the 45th Parallel. The ring of latitude is precisely half the distance from the equator and the North Pole and runs right through Oregon Wine Country. The Burgundy region of France and many of Oregon’s most prominent grape growing regions share the 45th Parallel, and with it similar weather patterns and agricultural protocol.

No two distant regions may be as closely related as Burgundy and the Willamette Valley. However, the two are still very independent entities. The proof is in the fact that the wineries in central France have already harvested, the 2011′s well on their way towards malolactic fermentation. The 2011 harvest was an exceptionally early one for the birthplace of Pinot Noir, however, the French fruit is typically picked well before its sibling American crop.

Alexandrine Roy of Domaine Marc Roy in Gevrey-Chambertin harvested the first week of September. Her family’s winery rests twelve miles south of Dijon and produces mostly small-batch Pinot Noir. Here in Oregon, most vintners are still at least a week away from giving the green light to harvest. That’ll make for an astonishing five-to-six-week difference in picking schedules between the two regions.

“The vines were trellised and hedged in May,” said Roy, still astonished by the early-season warmth. “It was incredible, the vegetation grew so fast, so furiously.”

“But nature balances itself,” continued Roy. “From the 13th of July, we had a fresh summer, with showers that rehydrated the vines.” The fourth-generation winemaker pulled leaves during the summer months to fight disease and aid ripening. Uneven clusters were common this year, or “milerandage,” which translates to “shot grapes.” But, like all good winemakers, Roy essentially pre-selected her fruit, dropped the weaker links and kept the best clusters for her label.

The result was a 30 percent decrease in yield, but a fruit quality that far surpasses what most are calling a slightly above average Burgundian harvest. Roy says her fruit showed less acidity and sugar this year compared to 2010, but tremendous balance and maturity (not unlike the revered 2005 vintage in central France).

“I am happy because we did fantastic work on a vintage that will be quite heterogenous,” Roy said.

When Burgundies and Oregon Pinot Noirs are tasted together, a few general distinctions can almost always be made. The New World wines tend to be more alcoholic, fruit-forward and heavier in body. The Burgundies are, generally, drier, less alcoholic and a combination of lighter and more acidic. On top of methodological differences in the cellar, climate and soil structures account for much of the flavor fluctuation.

The mountainous walls that protect either region do so differently. The Willamette Valley is set closer to the coast, but shielded by the Coastal Range, affording – normally – dryer summers than those of the Cote d’Or. In fact, the relative thinness of the Atlantic Ocean lends toward warmer coastal temperatures in France than in Oregon. Yet, Burgundy is set further inland from the ocean that the Willamette Valley is, so this is almost nullified. Geosciences Professor George Moore of Oregon State University elaborates on this in a very interesting and cleanly written report.

This year, Burgundy experienced an unusually dry spring, setting the stage for early ripening and an early crush. Above average precipitation during the summer months limited yield some, and most wineries are expecting a 20% decrease in yield. And despite all the rain, significant heat persisted through July and August, requiring many wineries to pick earlier than they have in several decades.

Opposite extremes have affected Oregon Wine Country. Bud break was a month late thanks to an extremely wet spring and summer weather really didn’t arrive until late July. Cool nights slowed ripening further. Presently, clouds and rainfall are slowing the last leg of ripening, but cluster sizes are up and the fruit looks plenty healthy.

Check out some images from Alexandrine below. You can visit her winery’s web site here.

Scarecrows

Picture the timeless and harrowing scene from Hitchcock’s The Birds and you’re not too far astray from last year’s crush. In 2010, Oregon Wine Country withstood an unprecedented amount of bird damage. For some wineries, the late harvest proved devastating, with viticulture’s feathery foes consuming anywhere from ten to eighty percent of a vineyard’s yield. This year, vineyard folks are hoping for an earlier harvest. Additionally, they hope to apply what they’ve learned from 2010′s unexpected loss.

There are several methods for keeping the starlings, finches, robins and jays out. Dr. Patty Skinkis, Viticulture Extension Specialist at Oregon State University, outlines many options in the school’s most recent issue of Vineyard Notes. Scare tactics are cheap and popular. These include reflective tape and recorded gunshot or predatory bird sounds. Skinkis notes that the birds tend to feed early (from dawn to midday), doubling the importance of getting an early start on whatever defense mechanism you choose.

Netting, by consensus, is best. Side netting in particular has grown in popularity the last few years because it covers only the fruit and allows maximum exposure for the rest of the vine (which is pulling as much energy in the form of sunlight as possible during the days before harvest). The narrower mesh of today is much tougher for the birds to penetrate. And with less of it used in the vineyard, there are less instances of birds getting tangled up. As evil as they seemed last year, the birds had nothing else to eat and were simply following their stomachs. Tempting as it was to sit beside the vineyard with a shotgun, we all agree that biodiversity and the ecological roles birds play in wine country play are just too important.

Dazzling to the eyes, harmful to the crop: European Starlings converge over a field.

Skinkis sites the importance of randomizing vineyard tactics. That way, the critters won’t have time to find a way to the fruit, whether that be through a seam in the netting or a a break in the reflective ribbon. Nature always finds away, especially when survival is at stake. Last year, added trouble came from migratory birds. They swooped in from mid to late October with nothing else to feast on and didn’t leave much for the winemakers.

With a late growing season again this year, another concern is mildew and botrytis, or “bunch rot.” Moist conditions are responsible for both and can destroy entire clusters. A dry spell – like last October – is the natural solution, strengthened even more with a little wind. Compact clusters are at greater risk as there’s less exposed surface area and more tight pockets for moisture to hide in. Minimal spraying and canopy management dries the crop, ensuring that it’s not mush by the time harvest is here.

For all the stress 2010 caused, it prepared us for harsh conditions. And based on the samples we’ve tasted, it’s going to be a charming vintage. August and September have set 2011 up for great success, but a dry spell next month is in high demand to keep things on track. Stay tuned.

Draft Wine

It’s a trend that’s spreading to the Willamette Valley: Storing and serving wine by the keg. The word “draft” is immediately associated with beer, but as wineries look to be leaner, greener and minimize oxidation, the keg option has become increasingly more attractive.

Restaurants have warmed up to the concept because the wine is never exposed to oxygen. When the day is done, there is no need to gas up half-empty bottles for use the next day. The pours, they argue, are cleaner and it saves the wait staff or sommelier the potential anxiety of opening a bottle in front of an audience.

The standard model is the Cornelius keg, which holds five gallons, or approximately 25 regular 750 mL bottles of wine. This has become a fairly popular option for sparkling wines, which hold on to their effervescence given the airtight storage. In terms of environmental impact, proponents site the over two cases’ worth of glass, cork and labels involved in standard bottling methods. The ability to clean and refill the kegs has lured people in as well.

Watching a bartender pull foamless red liquid from a tap remains an odd sight, but one that has grown in frequency over the last few years. The ritual of opening a bottle at a fine restaurant may never leave us, but with the influx of better box technology and now kegs, the culture of wine vessels is changing.

Our neighbors at Winter’s Hill went the way of the keg with some of their wines last summer. Among other things, they tout the savings involved, from the sharp decrease in packaging materials to lower fuel costs (because the wine ends being lighter with no glass and cardboard involved). Of course, the green side of the coin is a plus as well, especially here in the Pacific Northwest where organics, biodynamics and sustainability are household concepts.

Be on the lookout for draft wine in a city near you.

A Rare Rose

After a successful first run, we’re pleased to announce the return of our Pinot Gris Rose. In 2009, we produced 160 cases of this wine and were amazed not only by its peach color, but its unique, grapefruit driven flavor. Thanks to a subtle tannic backbone, the Rose sported just enough muscle to stand up to cheeses, fish and poultry.

This year, we will craft another 100 cases of the Rose. And while Pinot Gris is a distant genetic cousin of Pinot Noir, the grayish purple grape makes for a very different Rose wine. As opposed to the bubble gum and tropical fruit flavors often seen in Pinot Noir Roses, this wine is full of citrusy, floral, strawberry and pear notes.

Back by popular demand, the 2011 Rose will be available next Spring.

The key to Rose is skin contact. As opposed to pressing right away, the clusters are left in whole for a couple of days. This period, otherwise known as maceration, allows the phenolic components to be extracted from the fruit and it turns to must (young juice). These components include tannins, color, and flavor compounds. But the skin contact is minimal compared to that of Pinot Noir, so as to leech out a lighter, leaner wine.

Yet, the Vista Hills Rose of Pinot Gris is doubly unusual in that it was made much like a standard Pinot Noir. The grapes were fermented skins-on, demanding frequent punch-downs and all the initial care a Pinot Noir requires. After pressing, the wine was barrel aged in french oak for several months. The result is a colorful, fruity, semi-dry wine only a handful of brave souls have ever made. This wine was made by Jason Silva of Arcane Cellars.

Another popular method for making Rose is called Saignee. Some of the juice is bled early on and the resulting must is extra concentrated. This heightens color richness as well as the overall intensity of the wine, raising it higher in weight than a regular Pinot Gris.

Our 2011 Rose will be released sometime next Spring. Try it with seared tuna, grilled chicken or pasta with a citrus and capers.

Barrel Extensions

The average french oak barrel costs over $1,000 and lasts four to five vintages. Consider this the next time you’re scratching your head over the price of Pinot Noir. True, some vintners opt for neutral oak, extending the life of the barrels considerably. However, the majority relies on new oak’s gentle handling of the wine and subtle flavor impartations.

After every bottling season, barrels go out the door to hungry home-brewers or gardeners is need of a lawn ornament. For Vista Hills bartender and harvest hand Joe Williams, the barrels are the main ingredient for his own line of furniture. Williams strips off individual staves and reassembles them as chairs, coffee tables and wine racks.

An Adirondack rocking chair stained red from local Pinot.

Williams wastes very little. He uses the naturally curved staves – or barrel planks – in all of his pieces. He uses the steel rings at either end of the barrel to frame his coffee tables and incorporates barrel heads in wine racks and guest books for our wedding clients. With outfits like Oregon Barrel Works entering the scene, Williams can only expect greater access to materials down the road.

The McMinnville based company turns Hungarian, French and American oak into wine-ready barrels. The concept of terroir affects cooperage as well. Different regions are responsible for different wood types and each plays with wine differently. The grain, age, and species changes the wine just as the varietal, vine age and clone do.  And much like the winemaking process, barrel making takes lots of time – years even – from the original splitting to extensive air-drying.

Another finished product from Joe’s workshop.

See more of Williams’ work at his web site. Many of his pieces are on display at the Treehouse, including a brand new bench stained for outdoor use.

The Great Instigator

So many things contribute to a wine’s flavor. One often overlooked element is the great instigator, the party animal, the fermentation starter: Yeast.

With so many purists in Oregon enology, native yeast applications are fairly common. Also referred to as “wild” or “indigenous,” these strands of yeast occur naturally, either in the ripening clusters or in and on equipment in the winemaking facility itself. Yeast plays a number of big roles, jump-starting fermentation and contributing to a wine’s structure, flavor compounds, aromatics and mouthfeel.

People prefer wild yeast for different reasons. Certainly, it’s part of a larger purist movement built on less intervention and more organics. Subscribers to commercial yeast strands, of course, would argue that all yeast in natural, it’s more a matter of where it’s coming from. Others like native yeast because it works more slowly, especially when the fruit is cold-soaked early on. The daring prefer it because it’s more inconsistent, creating wine that differs even from barrel to barrel.

Native yeast can struggle in Oregon. Precipitation around harvest time washes much of the wild yeast off the fruit. In fact, many vineyard crews spray the vines with sulfites to kill off lesser desired types that could lead to rot or mold. Additionally, post-inoculation, many naturally occurring yeast strands struggle after alcohol levels reach three or four percent. Proponents of commercial yeast strands tout their reliability as well as ability to “finish” a wine. Many vintners’ horror stories are based on “stuck wines,” or wines with incomplete fermentation wherein the yeast becomes dormant.

One can taste the results of the two different methods at the Treehouse Tasting Room. Some of our winemakers, like Michael Stevenson of Panther Creek Cellars, use wild yeast fermentation. Others, like our own Dave Petterson, use commercial strands. Winemakers continue to debate the overall effect yeast has on flavor. What they all agree on is how important yeast is to the process at large. Without the great instigator, there simply would be no wine.

When next you’re tasting, consider yeast, on top of the multitude of other factors that makeup a wine (terroir, barrel regiment, brix, clone, etc.). It’ll keep your head spinning.

A Thriving Industry

The Oregon Wine Board just announced that the Oregon wine industry grew once more in 2010. There was a 12 percent increase statewide in direct sales, worth $13.4 billion. Analysts have attributed this to growing wine clubs, new shipping laws and social networking, among other things. I’d also attribute part of the growth to the stellar ’08 year, which received record praise, deservedly so.

An increase like this is music to the ears of many. Upon hearing it, I trekked over to the Oregon Wine Board’s web site for some additional information. What I came away with was a slough of facts I might have never known about the Beaver State’s bustling wine machine.

Oregon now has 16 American Viticultural Areas, including the lesser known Snake River Valley and Red Hills Douglas County AVAs.  Seven of these are sub appellations within the expansive Willamette Valley, but the diversity and growth is still worth noting.

Primitivo and Baco Noir are produced in Oregon. The former is an early-ripening grape with Italian origins. Closely related to Zinfandel, this varietal loves heat and produces opulent dark fruit flavors. The latter is a red hyrbid that generally produces leathery, berry notes. Critic Matt Kramer is a big fan of this once-flourishing French varietal.

Fourteen local wineries and vineyards are participating in the Carbon Neutral Challenge. This initiative started in 2007 and pushes participants to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and work with carbon offsets to neutralize their environmental impact. Check out the program’s web site for more info.

The brown marmorated stink bug is the newest pest concern in Oregon agriculture. First noticed in Pennsylvania in the mid-1990′s, the smallish insect has caused some concern in wine country. Thus far, the pest has concentrated mostly on berry farms, orchards and other crops.

Coming to a vineyard near you?  

After several years of lobbying, Jory is now Oregon’s official state soil. The nutrient-rich volcanic soil covers over 300,000 acres statewide and is one of some 2,000 soils identified within state lines.

The average Oregon winery produces 5,000 cases of wine per year. That puts us below the state average but just about even with what most Dundee Hills producers are doing.

For all the fuss surrounding the 2010 vintage, the growing season was only slightly below 2008 in terms of cumulative growing degree days (GrDD).  We got our ripening weather when we needed it most – last minute. Based on reports from winemakers and barrel samples I’ve tasted, the 2010′s will be clean, bright and well worth the wait.

Wine & Footy

It’s no coincidence that some of the most renowned wine producing countries also play the best soccer. Wine and footy are both art forms, involving elaborate technique, craft and presence of mind. In the spirit of a late night talk show, I’ve assembled the Top Ten Traits Shared by Wine & Soccer. So, without further adieu and in no particular order:

1. Patience

Soccer can be a slow and tactical sport, not unlike the many delays experienced in the wine industry. So much so that it can even feel esoteric. Watching a team lull its opponents to sleep with a long stretch of possession – think Barcelona – is exhausting to the untrained eye, akin to extremely lengthy tasting notes. But all that jogging off the ball can be beautiful, the little collective motions that lead to bigger things ahead. In wine terms, the pruning, the tilling, the leaf pulling is all part of an attack on goal, finalized with the game winning shot that is harvest.

2. Geography

Consider many of the teams that have won the World Cup: Spain, Argentina, Germany, Italy, France. And the nations that traditionally fare well when competing internationally, like Portugal, Chile and, when inspired, the United States. In addition to climate, soil structure and elevation, the viticultural term terroir may just include soccer ability.

3. Embellishment

It’s a sad truth is both arenas. On the field, there’s diving, the self-degrading act of making a no-foul or minor foul appear to be a heinous act of violence. In the industry of wine, there’s over-indulgence and, although rare, the supremely sensitive taster who claims every bottle is corked with the hopes of getting a refund. Officials are encouraged to card both parties.

Brazilian midfielder Rivalodo clutches his head after being hit in the foot by a soccer ball.

4. Maturation

Just as complexity increases in the bottle over time, a player gains more and more “soccer sense” as he ages. Sure, he may slow a bit (much like the fruit yield of an older vine), but he sees the field with greater wisdom, understands how to make big plays and laughs at the face of an agonizing 90th-minute penalty shot. Masters like Zidane, Maldini and Romario are the vintage Bordeauxs of soccer, accruing finesse and rich character with every passing season.

5. Endurance

Playing 90-minutes straight is a lot like working a harvest. With a running clock, there’s little time to rest and everybody involved must be working or the team fails. Soccer is often misconstrued as a fragile sport with no physical contact and only occasional fits of speed and excitement. In actuality, the sport is riddled with tough tackles, shoulder-to-shoulder battles and plenty of behind-the-scenes pushing and shoving. Wine too, can be a strenuous proposition, especially when barrels are being moved, trellis fencing is being tightened and vines are being manually pruned. An even blend of strength and endurance is a must in both fields.

6. Positions

Roles play a big part in soccer and wine. The winemaker, naturally, is the captain, taking charge of his team and creating opportunities when his teammates need him most. He is most likely a center midfielder, providing creativity every time he touches the ball. The sales team and distributors are the wingers, covering lots of ground and servicing the strikers with tantalizing crosses. They run themselves into the ground even for a single assist and demonstrate great footwork, flare, or salesmanship. The vineyard crew is the defensive back line, underappreciated, relentless and responsible for warding off pests. Finally, the goalkeeper, the last man between the goal and the opposing team. He is daring, vocal and willing to risk his own well-being for a clean sheet. This brand of no-nonsense is reserved for the Tasting Room Manager.

7. Rankings

FIFA is responsible for international soccer rankings and they can be more than confusing. The traditional powerhouses tend towards the top of the list, but it seems the top ten is always riddled with shaky performers like England and the Ivory Coast. Worse, teams accustomed to high rankings sometimes let it go to their heads and perform either safely (in an unentertaining, FC Porto kind of way), or poorly all together. Wineries too run the risk of letting go after high critical praise. Strong scores from big publications can be profitable and send a winery down a one-way road to greater production and a bigger emphasis on sales than craft. Dominant club teams like Chelsea and Inter Milan, as good as they may be, are hardly products of their own countries anymore, stacked with expensive all-star players from all over the world. But there’s always room for an upset, in both departments.

8. Blind Tastings

The ultimate soccer metaphor for a true blind tasting is England’s oldest tournament, the FA Cup. Here, teams from all over the country compete for the crown of English soccer. Opening rounds pit small teams with full-time mechanics, engineers and restaurant waiters against big dogs like Manchester United or Liverpool. It’s one of the few tournaments in world soccer that allows such democracy. And even if tiny North Tyneside United looses 7-1 to Newcastle – or our estate Pinot Noir is ruled inferior when tasted side-by-side with an Opus One – at least the chance was there.

9. Gamesmanship

You’ve seen it before. Players exchanging jerseys and a handshake at the end of a hard-fought match. This comradery exists in wine country as well, especially here in the Dundee Hills.  Sure, there is healthy competition, but in the end, we’re all enthusiasts of the same varietal, the same process, the same game. For Oregon wine to continue it’s amazing climb, the whole trade will have to do its part. In the same vein, for soccer to achieve greater American popularity, every MLS team must raise the bar, both individually on the training grounds and every time they face another team. When the whistle is blown, we can take off our shin guards and extend congratulations.

10. Portland!

Finally, the gateway to Pinot Noir is home to Major League Soccer’s Portland Timbers. Soccer City USA has waited a long time for this and our hard work has finally paid off. Like soccer, the local wine industry started decades ago and gained momentum with every passing vintage. Big foreign names – in enology and athletics – realized the potential here and took their talents to the Pacific Northwest. Now, with Jeld-Wen Field and sixteen American Vitivultural Areas statewide, long term stages for both soccer and wine have been set. And we’d like to think the two are continuing to improve with every passing season.

The Mighty Magnum

Showing up to a dinner party with an oversized bottle is always a good move. There’s novelty in the magnum (1.5 L) or double magnum (3L), as well as a sense of jubilance and celebration. What’s more, the large format bottles are ideal vessels for aging wine. With a smaller air-to-wine ratio, the wine is exposed to less oxygen and therefore less likely to undergo harmful oxidation. The wine ages slower, an especially strong trait for Bordeaux wines, built for slow maturation.

The larger bottle also offers greater thermal mass and protection. Heat and light – should they sneak into your cellar – have a harder time penetrating a thicker bottle with added volume. This ensures consistency of climate, an aging wine’s best friend.

We’ve just expanded our large format lineup, knowing full well that the 2008 vintage is one for the ages. The general consensus is that this particular vintage will offer a consumption window for Oregon Pinot Noir that stretches all the way to 2025 (in some cases). So, nurture this special vintage with the proper bottle. That, or equip yourself with something to wow people with at your next dinner gathering.

Vista Hills Large Format Selection

Estate Double Magnums (3L)

2009 Tusculum Pinot Noir – $176

2008 Marylhurst Pinot Noir – $144

2008 Treehouse Pinot Noir – $112

Estate Magnums (1.5L)

2009 Tusculum Pinot Noir – $88

2008 Marylhurst Pinot Noir – $72

2008 Treehouse Pinot Noir – $56

Call or email to purchase.  Magnums are available for weddings.

(503) 864-3200  info@vistahillsvineyard.com